My first real dinner in Paris (crepes do not count as dinner, it's more like... yummy fast food) was at La Cuisine de Philippe across from the Luxembourg Gardens.
Renowned for both their savory and sweet soufflés, La Cuisine de Philippe is listed in the Michelin Guide (although not starred), so you'll definitely need reservations if you want to eat here. We came in during lunch hour to make reservations for dinner on a Wednesday night in early September and had no issues, although I suspect same-day dinner reservations for the weekend or during tourist season on any given day might not be so easy.
Our reservation was about 7:15 pm and we were the first ones there for about 15 minutes. The hostess was the sweetest lady ever and very efficient. I noticed that in Paris - employees always kept themselves busy and were never idling about. She handled the restaurant by herself and chef Philippe handled all the food and introduced himself to every customer. If your camera is out, both the hostess and chef Philippe will ask you if you want your picture taken.
The restaurant is small and cozy, perhaps 12 - 15 small tables. You can order a la carte from the menu or order the prix fixe option, with either appetizer + entree, entree + dessert, or appetizer, entree, + dessert. I had originally planned to order just appetizer + entree for me and all three courses for my mom so we can share dessert, but I thought, what the hey, it's my first dining experience in Paris, I'm going all out and not sharing! I would have loved to order some rosé, but I don't take alcohol very well and we couldn't get Mom lost in Paris on the way home now, could we? The three course menu was a steal too, for a little over 70 euros total for the both of us.
The sweet hostess went through the menu with us and explained every single dish as well as the specials of the day. For appetizers, I ordered their special savory mushroom souffle and mom go the crab and lobster souffle (we ordered all our courses up front). Neither of us had ever eaten a savory soufflé so we were so excited to have a "new" for everything for our first dining experience in the culinary capital of the world. As is custom with every meal you'll eat in Paris, bread was brought out although we didn't really eat it since we had sandwiches earlier that day. As we waited for appetizers, mom and I just sat in awe of our surroundings, the atmosphere, and the fact that we were really in Paris. This trip had been in our plans for well over a year and it was finally happening!
Additional customers began coming in and I noticed the hostess had to turn away a number of people even though there were empty tables. I've read about this and how unlike some places, the restaurants actually honor their reservations and don't risk having their patrons wait, also as to not interfere with food quality due to being rushed. Before we knew it, our appetizers were set before us. I can't tell you the excitement that I felt as the soufflés were placed on our table. After observing it in awe, we dug in into the light, airy, creamy mass and looked at each other with such happiness. It wasn't just that it tasted so wonderful, it was just that being in Paris was sinking in deeper and deeper for us.
My mushroom soufflé was cheesy, creamy, and filled with a variety of mushrooms. It was reminiscent of cream of mushroom soup. The soufflé itself was very airy and moist.
Mom's crab and lobster soufflé had the very distinct flavor of shellfish, reminiscent of lobster bisque. Now that I think of it, both of our savory soufflés can be described something along the lines of an angel poke cake with the soup poured over it... or maybe tres leches. Both were so creamy, seasoned well, and allowed the flavors of the main ingredients to shine through. Savory soufflés are a must try and definitely has a place on my preferred foods list!
Next up were our main courses. I ordered duck breast since I made it a priority to try a french dish with duck breast. I've only eaten duck cooked asian style (like peking duck) and it seemed everywhere in Paris was serving duck breast. Mom ordered a lamb hash enrobed in phyllo pastry. Each dish came with a variation of puree, a savory vegetable mousse, and vegetables. Both had some kind of sauce on it and if I recall correctly, the glazes were pretty similar - sweet with hints of orange. The skin-on duck breast came beautifully presented as slices with the citrusy sweet glaze on top. I took a bite and just savored it. It was a little gamey as duck is, but the glaze seemed to balance it out. The glaze also played a balancing role by complementing the fatty skin so that it wouldn't be overwhelmingly rich. The texture was a little chewy and could've been more tender. Next I tried the vegetable mousse which was so creamy! I couldn't really make out what was in it except that it must've been some kind of vegetable with cheese and lightened with egg whites, very creative and tasty. Then I tried the puree which turned out to be potatoes or celery puree. I don't exactly remember if I had the potatoes or if my mom did. But either way, both tasted light and airy and of course, creamy. This was a nice change from a typical starchy side. Then of course the vegetables. To be honest, it felt like the vegetables were thrown on the dish just to be there as garnish. I think they were just plain steamed and didn't really taste fresh - more like frozen. The dish could've done without it but it would've been nice to have fresh broccoli to pair with the citrus glaze.
Mom's lamb hash dish was big! It was wrapped in a baked phyllo pastry and the garnishes were the same as my dish (minus the puree I mentioned above). My mom was a little surprised because we originally thought it was going to be a lamb chop or lamb shank dish. Neither of us eat lamb at home and the only way we've ever had it was as chop or shank. The hash was a little dry according to my mom although I thought it was meant to be that way and a little crispy on the outside. Once you bit into it though, it was like the oils released and therefore produced this really nice texture of a "dry" (I don't mean this in a bad way) and crispy protein and oil emulsion, lending to a creamy profile as you swallowed it. I thought this was really good although I still preferred my duck breast over her lamb hash.
Next up? Dessert of course. No meal in Paris is complete without dessert. We went for the dessert soufflés they are known for - the Grand Marnier and the pistachio with chocolate.
When the hostess brought out my Grand Marnier soufflé, she also brought out a whole bottle of the liquer and splashed it on the soufflé... Then she left the bottle there. If that were any sort of nut butter left in my presence (which did happen at a breakfast), it'd be empty. The vanilla-based soufflé sunk a little when the liquor was splashed on and revealed quite a moist center. I didn't add anymore of the Grand Marnier since I don't take alcohol very well, but it created a really nice boozy dessert. The soufflé was eggy and like a light custard.
I then proceeded to dig in to my mom's pistachio chocolate soufflé and I really liked this one too, although I wish the pistachio flavor was more present.
It was more of a chocolate soufflé since it overpowered the other flavors in the cake, but it was so good! Like a molten chocolate lava cake. It was a tad on the sweet side though and my mom couldn't finish it. I had to restrain myself.
All in all, I would certainly come back to this restaurant and try other items on the menu as well as order what I did before. The atmosphere is so relaxed and welcoming and the hostess and chef are so sweet. I loved sitting in this restaurant and taking all of Paris in.
La Cuisine de Philippe (6th)
25 rue Servandoni
Paris, France 75006
