Monday, January 26, 2015

I'm back...Breakfast at Les Frangines, a visit to Château Versailles, and the famous Angelina

I've been so busy since the holiday season began... and ended... and have been meaning to post but haven't found the time. I'll start with where I left off from my Paris trip and try to get the rest of the trip up. I don't make new year's resolutions really, but keeping up with this blog will have to be one of them because it is a hobby of mine... So let's start!


I had a visit to the Palace of Versailles planned and originally wanted to get breakfast somewhere around there, but not really knowing how long it would take and knowing that it would take extra time since I had to figure out how to purchase RER tickets to get to Versailles, we instead stopped at Les Frangines on the way to Gare Montparnasse. I read about this place on Yelp and saw pictures of the kind of French breakfast they served (bread!) and made the quick decision to turn in and try a french breakfast for once. There were a couple people here and there and we were seated promptly in this quaint and cute little cafe. Just being in the cafe made me so happy because it was so open and just plain fun to sit in and watch as the other small shops opened early in the morning. We ordered petit dejeuner for the both of us with freshly squeezed orange juice. They apparently had a cheaper option with pre-squeezed orange juice but I didn't know... And fresh always tastes better anyway.


As we sat waiting, which actually took a while, my mom noticed the hostess leave the store (I think she was the only staff member on-site) to go a couple doors down and pick up the croissants. It's pretty amazing how trusting they are as this is something I've never seen in America. I personally don't even leave the door unlocked when I walk within sight of my apartment to take Muffin and Panda on a potty break.


As we waited, the reality of being in Paris was still shocking. Sitting here in this cafe and just observing the set-up and ambience, the sounds of the neighborhood waking up, I felt like I was in a movie. Stores just don't open in the morning in the U.S. the way they do in these places with so much history. It just felt so.... comfortable and relaxing. When the host came back, we were promptly served our freshly squeezed orange juice and coffee on those cute platters they use and sell everywhere in Paris with a big baguette slice, croissant, and accompanying house fruit jam, chocolate-hazelnut spread, and butter for each of us on a small wooden cutting board. Even this made me smile because the set-up was so cute. I find it amazing how generous they are with the chocolate-hazelnut spread - they serve the entire jar to you! I'm pretty sure in the states, since Nutella is relatively still new to us, that those jars would be empty each time their diners were done eating.


This wasn't a breakfast I could do everyday - bread and croissant with nutella, butter, and sugar (jam) for breakfast? It's tasty but by the time we were done, we were all breaded and sugared out, which is a total surprise to me since I'm a peanut butter and nutella fiend. It was a fun experience and a good deal for under 20€ for the both of us (I think it was just under 7€/person if you ordered breakfast with pre-squeezed orange juice). It was also good fuel for what would be a crazy trek at Chateau Versailles (buildings appear close than they actually are).

So, I'm so glad they had translators at Gare Montparnasse as I was so lost. There were so many different options and I didn't really know how the train system worked - the metro was easy since it's just like any other subway station, but more is not better, not for me - we don't have subway systems and I don't know French. The gare was like Grand Central in New York, so needless to say, I was completely lost with the plethora of options. Luckily, we found a translator and she directed me downstairs. All I could think was, there is a whole other level of confusion? Just great. But it turned out to be rather simple. I overthought it like how I overthink my life. So the train had two levels and we sat upstairs to get a better view of everything. The ride was above ground and it was actually a little depressing. It stopped at multiple residential neighborhoods but those stations looked so desolate and lonely; sometimes there would just be one person or a couple others sitting and waiting and I would wonder how long they had been waiting for. This is probably me overthinking things again since I am not accustomed to any rail systems being in Houston.


We arrived in Versailles in about 20 minutes or so and started our trek to the palace. So just a warning for T-Mobile users, I couldn't get reception out here. Luckily I was still able to load Google Maps and it pinpointed close to where I was standing and I was able to make my way to the palace. I would say it's a good 20 - 25 minute walk before you get there.


On the way there, I noticed the cutest dog sitting in the oddest position I've ever seen. To me, that's like squatting for an extended period of time resulting in burning quads.


When we finally got there, a long line had already formed. The ticket we purchased online and printed out apparently still makes you wait in line with those who have not purchased tickets. It wasn't that long of a wait though. When we finally got in, my mom and I were again in awe of how beautiful it was. The audio guides are free of charge and I would recommend bringing earbuds so you don't have to hold the brick of a sound device to your ears each time. It was helpful having it, but I wished I was more dedicated and actually read more than a couple of pages of my book on the life of Marie Antoinette before visiting Versailles.








Me and my mom during happier times, right before she got pissed at me for making her walk to the Grand Trianon.

When we were done with the tour of the main palace, we went to visit the gardens, which really is so big you'd have to rent a golf cart to see it all. There were a lot of closed gardens that used to be the center for extravagant parties with working water fountains, but those were destroyed or were no longer working. The second part of our visit would be to the Grand Trianon and Petit Trianon in the back. This is where our breakfast helped us... sort of. I tried to wait for the tram that would drive us there, but I got impatient and one of the staff members said it was about a 30 minute walk. So I thought, "let's just walk." Well what she didn't tell me was that the roads aren't paved and there was a lot of cobblestone... and that it really took a lot longer than 30 minutes. I'll admit that even my feet hurt because I didn't wear proper shoes, but boy was mom angry. She has flat feet with prescription orthotics in her shoes, so her feet was basically tattered to pieces by the time we reached the Grand Trianon. I strongly advise you purchase the tram tickets and wait however long it takes to get a ride if you're not wearing thick soled and comfortable shoes and if you have feet issues.



This is where I wished we made the stop at Angelina before heading to the Grand Trianon. See, once you exit the palace, you have to go through the main entrance again even though you're there in the gardens (they won't let you back in from the garden). I really wanted to experience dining at Angelina at the palace, but oh well.




The Grand Trianon was a short experience given how long it took us to get there. It was interesting to see how the family lived away from the main palace where they had more privacy. One had to wonder how exactly they traveled to the back - I'm assuming horse and carriage but I wonder if they traveled back there by foot often, since with every step I took, my feet were reminding me how far and painful the unpaved path was. The Grand Trianon is a long corridor of rooms basically and as the more rooms one had access, the more trust that was required.




After our short visit at Grand Trianon, we walked over to the Petit Trianon where there was an Angelina! It's counter service and you dine outside. It was probably two or three in the afternoon before we ate again and they were out of a lot of items, especially all salads. I ordered their famous Mont Blanc dessert to share,two of their other famous item-hot chocolate to go with it, and a ham and cheese baguette to share. I REALLY wanted to experience their hot chocolate in the restaurant with the whipped cream, but we were just so exhausted and hungry that I didn't care at this point. Mom and I sat down to rest our feet and split the sandwich. I couldn't wait to try the hot chocolate which was exactly how I was expected it to be- absolutely thick and creamy like a drinking chocolate or rather, melted chocolate with a couple splashes of hot milk. It is extremely rich and we should've gotten one to share, but I got greedy.



So now, their famous Mont Blanc and it's famous for a reason. My mom loves chestnuts so she was excited about this dessert. Her first reaction? Her eyes widened and a huge grin formed on her face. The chestnut cream was so dense and fragrant of chestnuts. Paired with the whipped cream beneath it, it became this creamy, nutty, peanut butter-like paste. We were both in love with it. I had to fight her off my half and before she even had a second or third bite, she said, "we have to get this again this trip and I'm not sharing." I think the Mont Blanc was the highlight of her trip.

With our bellies full and our energy fueled, we visited Petit Trianon which took not long at all. I tried to find the Queen's Hamlet and one of the tourists mistakenly told me that the Petit Trianon was it. I later found out that it was a ways away and that you had to walk through a pasture and farm before you actually got there and that the only way to get there was on foot. Well, when I found this out, we were already on the tram taking us back to the main palace, but it's not like we had the skin left on our feet to walk there anyway. The Queen's Hamlet is definitely on my bucket list and I will make it a point to visit it when, not if,I go back to Paris.

We finally made it back to Paris near the Eiffel Tower and were just so tired we ate at a touristy cafe that decided to automatically assume we wanted overpriced bottled water while she served everyone else a carafe. Well touristy it was, as the food was reheated and dry. I would say not to just wing it in this area and do your research or buy cheap food at a counter and find a place to sit, otherwise you'll overpay for food that doesn't taste all that great.

We walked around the area and decided to call it a night and head back to Atelier Montparnasse early and rest. Versailles made it a very long day, but it was a worthy visit.

Les Frangines (14th)
46 Rue Raymond Losserand
Paris, France 75014

Palace of Versailles
http://en.chateauversailles.fr/homepage

Angelina (Versailles)
http://www.angelina-versailles.com/
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